Publicado: 06/01/2015 04:00
Por eso siempre es un buen plan organizar una ruta por el paraíso quesero asturiano, un auténtico lujo de fácil acceso para el común de los mortales. La única ‘pega’ es que hay tantos buenos quesos asturianos que la elección se complica: con más de 40 variedades, Asturias produce la mitad de los distintos quesos catalogados en España. Por eso hoy nos limitamos a proponeros una ruta por la cuna de los cinco quesos asturianos con denominación de origen. El manjar de los dioses en su propio paraíso. ¡Que aproveche!
Concejo de Cabrales
Como su nombre indica, de esta zona procede el famoso queso de cabrales, tan aplaudido entre los expertos que el Cueva del Molín se proclamó hace unas semanas como el mejor queso azul del mundo al ganar el certamen World Cheese Awards 2014, celebrado en Londres, en el que participaban casi 3.000 quesos procedentes de los cinco continentes.
No apto para paladares delicados, pero una auténtica delicatessen para los amantes del queso fuerte, el cabrales fue el primero en conseguir denominación de origen allá por el año 1981. Se produce principalmente en el Concejo de Cabrales, en el Oriente asturiano, donde las opciones de turismo no tienen fin: excursiones como la ruta del Cares, escalar el mítico Naranjo de Bulnes, visitar las cuevas con pinturas rupestres de La Covaciella, El Bosque y Los Canes, acercarse a las iglesias y palacios de los siglos XVII y XVIII de la zona... Para todos los gustos.
Concejo de Onís
Es aquí donde los pastores de esta zona de los Picos de Europa producen el riquísimo queso Gamonéu desde tiempos que ya ni siquiera recuerdan. Lo hacen en sus dos variedades, del Puerto (se elabora en las cabañas de los puertos altos de Onís y Cangas de Onís en primavera y verano) y del Valle (se produce en pequeñas queserías de aldeas de las zonas bajas y tiene denominación de origen desde 2003).
Además de ser un auténtico manjar muy codiciado por los aficionados al buen queso, la zona donde se produce es un regalazo para los amantes de la naturaleza y las buenas vistas. Si vais al Concejo de Onís no podéis perderos el paisaje que forman los Picos de Europa junto a los valles dibujados por los ríos Güeña y Casaño; los bosques de castaños, avellanos y robles; el Palacio de Noriega y la Casa del Colladín de Talaveru; la iglesia de Santa Eulalia, del siglo XV, y la ermita de Castro en Benia de Onís; las construcciones indianas de La Robellada... Para no perdérselo.
Grado
Hacia el otro lado de Asturias, en el Occidente, se produce otro queso tan especial como su nombre, Afuega'l pitu, que obtuvo su denominación de origen hace seis años. Es uno de los preferidos por los devotos del queso exclusivamente de vaca además de tener mucha solera: resulta que su origen lo sitúa entre los más antiguos de Asturias, tanto que hubo un tiempo en que se usó como moneda de pago de impuestos.
Se produce en decenas de localidades, pero el mayor productor actual es el concejo de Grado, que merece una visita de las que se sabe cuándo comienzan pero no cuándo terminan. Entre los imprescindibles, una lista muy larga: el Palacio de Miranda-Valdecarzana, la Capilla de los Dolores, la Casa de los Arcos, palacetes de indianos, las iglesias de los pueblos del concejo, rutas ciclistas como la de la Escanda, senderismo por el Camín Real de la Mesa y hasta una visita al Museo Etnográfico, donde se puede conocer más acerca de la cultura centro-occidental asturiana.
Parque Natural de Redes y Piloña
Uno de los últimos quesos asturianos en conseguir la denominación de origen ha sido el queso Casín, elaborado en los concejos de Caso y Sobrescobio, que forman el Parque Natural de Redes, y también en el concejo de Piloña. Cuentan que su origen puede rastrearse al menos hasta el siglo XIV, aunque hay quienes van mucho más allá situándolo en tiempos del rey don Pelayo, en el año 700.
Y si su sabor, fuerte y algo picante, se ha mantenido intacto durante siglos, es que debe tener mucho de bueno. La zona donde se produce es un paraíso con todas las letras: en Piloña es casi un pecado perderse la ruta de las casonas, los hórreos de Espinaréu o el barrio del Valledal, en Villamayor, en Caso hay que aprovechar para hacer rutas senderistas, visitar la Colegiata de Santa María la Real, en Tanes, o acudir a ver el naicmiento del Nalón en el puerto de Tarna.
Por último, de Sobrescobio no te puedes marchar sin haber hecho la ruta que bordea el río Alba o conocido los pueblos y aldeas de este concejo ubicado en plenas montañas y lleno de frondosos bosques.
Ponga y Amieva
En estas dos localidades se fabrica el famoso queso de Los Beyos o beyusco, que ya lleva un año con denominación de origen. ¿Lo mejor de él? Un aroma muy suave y un original sabor algo ácido. Dicen los entendidos que va perfecto para los postres. Y además, se produce en un lugar que lo tiene todo para disfrutar.
En Ponga, además de visitar pueblos colgados de montañas o el bosque de la Reserva Natural Parcial de Peloño que se encuentra dentro del espectacular Parque Natural de Ponga, hay que acercarse a iglesias como la de San Juan de Beleño y también echar un vistazo a los hórreos beyuscos.
Por su parte, Amieva ofrece al turista algunas de las visitas obligadas de los Picos de Europa: el valle de Angón, la Sierra de Amieva, el desfiladero del Dobra... Un lujo para los que disfrutan de la naturaleza con todas las letras.
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